Peptides: Miracle ingredient, or useless topical?

What are Peptides?

The word peptide is Greek for something small that is easily digested. The word ‘peptide’ refers to two or more amino acids joined together. Peptides can contain more than two amino acids; these longer chains of amino acids strung together are called polypeptides, more commonly referred to as proteins.  They are basically the residue or left-overs when amino acids link up.

 

As world-famous dermatologist, Dr. Banabio says:

“Skin is made up mostly of collagen; it is the foundation that gives your skin its support and thickness. Young people have lots of collagen and taut, smooth skin. In contrast, older people have much less collagen and thin, wrinkled skin. Collagen is protein and is made up long chains of amino acids strung together, like chains of linked building blocks. When it is broken down, short segments of 3-5 amino acids form, called peptides.”

 

Some ways peptides claim to improve or make skin look younger:

• Peptides signal your skin to make more collagen!

When we age collagen breaks down and is depleted, but not replaced; as a result skin becomes thin and wrinkled. When collagen breaks down, it forms specific peptides. These peptides act as a signal to tell your skin it was damaged and to make new collagen. Applying peptides directly to your skin is a way to trick your skin into thinking that it has lost collagen recently and needs to make more.

 

• Peptides deliver copper into your skin!

Remember peptides are small, so they can penetrate the skin’s protective barriers to get to the deeper layers. When copper is attached to a peptide, it delivers copper to the living layers of the skin. Copper is an effective skin healing ingredient, it has been used for years to treat chronic wounds, it promotes collagen production and acts as antioxidants.

 

• Neuropeptides can act like Botox!

Some peptides might actually be able to block transmission of signals from nerves to your facial muscles. A particular neuropeptide called argireline has been shown (in laboratory tests) to block the release of neurotransmitters from nerves, ergo if argireline was absorbed all the way through the skin to the level of the muscle, then it might block contraction of the muscle, leading to smoother skin, similar to Botox. Great, right? Well, here is the problem:  it would be like pouring a glass of water onto a mattress and waiting for it to soak all the way through. Buyer beware! While they sound great, there is essentially no good published scientific data either proving or disproving their effectiveness.

 

After all that… Peptides might not do anything at all.

There are so very many things that have to go right in order for peptides to have any real benefit. They are “break-down” products of proteins, so they have to be stabilized or they will continue to break down once they are put in a topical cream, rendering them useless. Also, they have to be in a cream that can actually penetrate the skin.

 

Who does it best:

Peptide technology:

Strivectin $75.

SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum $250.

Oil of Olay’s Regenerist line, which I recommend to my clients on a budget.

 

Peptides with Copper:

Neova Day or Night Therapy $80 each. Neova serum $100.

Osmotics Blue Copper $55 and serum $75.

Neutrogena’s Visibly Firm line.

What it is… What it does… Organics!

O.k. My last “what it is…” blog scared you all straight to the organic skincare counters… now what? You now have a whole new list of ingredients that you don’t know “what it is” or “what it does”, right? Well… here you go…

Aloe Vera – Known for its healing properties and member of the lily family. Used by Egyptians, Romans, Greeks, Chinese, Indians, and Arabians they have all reported its internal and external use and effectiveness. Many people the world over have been using Aloe Vera for generations, helping find relief from sunburns and inflammations.
Apricot Kernel Butter – Comes from the pits of the actual apricot fruit, it is high in Linoleic Acid but not greasy. Linoleic Acid is known to moisturize and soothe the skin, but it is great for aging skin and sensitive skin.
Avocado oil – Has been used in African skin treatments for centuries. It is derived from the pit of the fruit – it is very rich and moisturizing, making it great for people with dry skin and eczema. Highly therapeutic oil is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), Vitamin D, E, minerals, protein, lecithin and fatty acids.
Beeswax – Beeswax lends emollients and softening properties in cosmetics, and helps retain skins natural moisture. Beeswax is also a great addition to creams and lotions because it naturally bonds certain ingredients together.
Bentonite clay – A combination of montmorillonite and volcanic ash. It is a highly absorbent clay that pulls oils and impurities from the skin. It is best suited for oily skin and combination skin.
Borage seed oil – One of the richest sources of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA), this oil contains important vitamins and minerals, topical treatments which contain GLA, significantly help repair severely dry skin. Borage oil is best for maturing skin, damaged skin or where regeneration of new skin cells is needed.
Calendula extract – Derived from the Marigold flower, one of the medicinal properties found in Calendula is triterpenoids (anti-inflammatory). Calendula has been topically used to heal sunburns, inflammations, infections on the skin.
Chamomile herb – Comes from the Chamomile flower and has been used for centuries by the Romans and English because of its healing qualities. Chamomile is well -known for its calming aroma and its anti-inflammatory, skin soothing properties.
Citric acid – Citric acid is rich in anti-oxidants and most typically used for bath salts and fizzy bath bombs. Citric acid is also used to adjust the pH Level in cosmetics, as well as prevent cosmetics from becoming too alkaline. Citric acid can also be used as a mild acidic preservative.
Cocoa butter – Derived from the Cocoa Bean, which is also where chocolate comes from it is one of the most stable fats and also contains natural antioxidants. Cocoa butter is well known for healing sun burnt skin and softening the appearance of stretch marks and wrinkles. This butter also has a high reputation for providing a barrier on the skin, which helps retain moisture.
Coconut milk powder – Highly moisturizing for skin, mostly used in bath products and soaps.
Coconut oil – Carrier oil for dry, itchy, sensitive skin, does not clog pores and absorbs readily into the skin. Creates a rich lather in soaps and cleansers.
Dead Sea salt – A very mineral rich salt, containing high proportions of Potassium – to regulate the moisture level of the skin, Magnesium – promote healing and Bromide – for its smoothing and relaxing effect. The natural mineral salts exfoliate and revitalize the skin and draw out toxins.
Dendritic salt – Micro crystallized salts that have an enormous surface area, and are used to help hold fragrance and discourage clumping of regular salts.
Elder flowers – Mildly astringent to the skin, and improve the complexion and help relieve eczema, psoriasis and acne.
Flax Seed Oil – Helps those suffering from eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, acne and aging skin, anti-inflammatory benefits of flax seed oil can be seen when it is used externally. Topical use of flax seed oil allows the body to absorb some of the essential fatty acids necessary for healthy cellular activity, and improves the overall health of the skin.

Germaben II – Ready-to-use broad spectrum anti-microbial preservative for personal care products such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, body sprays and other formulations, highly effective against bacteria, yeasts and molds.
Ginseng extract – Actually a root, Asian cultures have used Ginseng for food products and medicinal purposes for centuries, ginseng is anti-stressing, anti-fatiguing and skin re-balancing.
Glycerin (Vegetable) – Comes from coconuts, this thick, sweet tasting liquid is a natural humectant – it retains moisture in the skin which helps skin maintain its softness and elasticity.
Grapeseed oil – Used in Europe as a cooking agent and beauty purposes for centuries, rich in vitamins, minerals, linoleic acid (see Borage Seed Oil) and other essential fatty acids, helps strengthen tissue cells and help preserve the natural moisture of the skin – highly penetrating, light oil that is great for dry, damaged or aging skin.
Green tea – An antioxidant that works powerfully on anti-aging, helps protects the skin from UVA and UVB radiation.
Ground Loofah – A plant, which resembles the cucumber plant, it’s dried out and then used as a scrub for shower or bath time – whole or ground Loofah is used to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells from the skin.
Honey and Honey Powder – Used as an antibacterial agent, honey is a natural humectant, which draws moisture to the skin from the air, and said to be a natural antiseptic due to its tendency to absorb the life-sustaining moisture out of bacterial cell walls, it attracts the dirt from skin pores and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin – a natural skin cleanser and softener.
Hydrosols – The pure, distillate water that remains after essential oils are steam distilled from the original plant material, usually clear and have the appearance and consistency of water, aroma is generally, but not always, similar to that of the essential oil, but the aroma is usually much more subtle. They also contain water-soluble components of the plant material that may not be present in the essential oil.
Jojoba oil – Not actually an oil but a liquid wax, highly penetrating and closely resembles our natural sebum. Removes excess oils and balances the natural skin oils, contains a natural anti-inflammatory called “myristic acid” – great oil for arthritis and rheumatism.
Kelp powder – A sea plant rich in amino acids, vitamins, minerals, helps to detoxify and re-balance the skin.
Lanolin – A natural, waterproof emollient derived from the wool of sheep, mimics our own sebum, acts as an emollient for use in cosmetics and skin and hair care products, and helps skin retain moisture giving a soft, supple feel to skin.
Lavender herb – Used for soothing and calming the skin and senses.
Lemon balm Herb – Also known as Melissa, very soothing and calming, a member of the mint family, its name comes from the fact that the fresh herb and essential oil have a lovely lemon fragrance – used to relieve muscle tension, aches, cramps, insomnia, depression and soothes irritated skin.
Mango Butter – Contains essential fatty acids, seals in moisture, helping soften and protect dry skin, protects skin from UV Rays.
Milk protein – Used as an addition to products to create a moisturizing skin barrier.
Monoi De Tahiti Jasmine – An exotic oil from Polynesia, it means scented oil, and is created by soaking/macerating Tiare petals in refined coconut oil for 15 days. It hydrates the skin rapidly and reduces trans-epidermal water loss.
Neem powder – Derived from the Neem tree, part of the mahogany family, highly anti-bacterial, it is great for the body and face to eliminate acne.
Nettle extract – An anti inflammatory aid, helps with treating eczema and itchy skin conditions, used as a natural, deep cleanser especially useful for oily skin. A “tea” made with nettles can be used to wash irritated skin.
Oatmeal powder (Colloidal) – Oats ground into a fine powder, not the same as the oatmeal that you eat, used for beauty products. When added to bath water, it disperses its milky substance, gives relief to people who have dry or irritated skin, for bites, stings and sun damage by bringing pH levels back to normal.
Olive oil – High in oleic acid and is a good skin cell regenerator, attracts external moisture to the skin and still allows normal functions of the skin to take place (sweating, shedding of dead skin and releasing sebum). It is useful as a treatment for inflamed skin.
Phenonip – A natural preservative and is highly effective against a full range of microbial growth, including yeast and mold.
Pink Kaolin Clay – A gentle clay, suitable for sensitive skin, helps stimulate circulation while gently exfoliating and cleansing, it does not draw oils from the skin, so it can be used on dry skin types, sensitive skin or normal skin types.
Raspberry leaves – The chemicals found in raspberry leaves act as an astringent that help to decrease inflammation.
Rooibos tea – Rooibos is more commonly known for its anti-oxidant properties in tea, treating a number of ailments including infant colic and insomnia, as well as numerous other allergies across a wide age spectrum and used on the skin to help with anti-aging.
Rose powder – An astringent and stimulates circulation when used with other ingredients, derived from dried rose petals, which gives products a nice, fragrant smell.
Rosehips Herb – Excellent source of Vitamin C, contains tannin and carotene.
Sea clay – High content of minerals and draws out oils while mineralizing the skin, helps to firm and tone skin.
Seabuckthorn oil – Has general nourishing, revitalizing, and restorative action, used for acne, dermatitis, irritated, dry, itching skin, sore skin, eczema, skin ulcers, postpartum pigmentation, burns, scalds, cuts, and tissue regeneration, effectively combats wrinkles, dryness and other symptoms of malnourished or prematurely aging skin.
Seaweed extract – High in vitamins A, C and E – potent anti-oxidants, help reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Sesame oil – Rich in essential fatty acids and maintains integrity of the skin tissue while restructuring and moisturizing the skin.
Shea butter – Used for thousands of years as the ideal treatment for dry or aging skin, derived from the nuts of the tree. High content of non-saponifiable (can be hydrolyzed under basic conditions, these lipids are known as simple lipids) fatty acids helps to protect the skin against the damaging effects of the sun while repairing cellular degeneration.
Soy protein – Used to moisturize and as an antioxidant, contains Vitamin E.
Soy wax – Earth friendly wax, burns longer, cooler and cleaner than paraffin (animal bi-product) wax, comes from a renewable and sustainable source, and is non-carcinogenic.
Spearmint herb – Works as a cooling effect on the skin
Squalene – An anti-oxidant to protect from the harsh effects of the environment, improves skin complexion, including psoriasis and dermatitis, keeps the skin soft and healthy.
Sunflower oil – Naturally high in vitamins A, D & E, lecithin and Omega 9, high oleic (fatty acid derived from olives) content helps cell regeneration for mature or damaged skin.
Sweet almond oil – Light emollient, penetrates the skin easily for softening and conditioning the skin, well-suited for eczema, psoriasis and itchy, dry and inflamed skin, rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins A, B1, B2, B6 and E.
Titanium dioxide – A white powder and natural pigment, it provides protection from the suns rays.
Vitamin C – Found naturally in fruits and green vegetables and is essential for wound healing and tissue repair, also used as a preservative and anti-oxidant to help prevent free radical damage in the skin.
Vitamin E – Anti-oxidant, when used topically, decreases some of the harmful effects of solar radiation on the skin, helpful to treat burns secondary to radiation therapy, helps heal acne, promote wound healing and prevent scarring from eczema or psoriasis.
Witch hazel – Comes from a trees bark, used as an astringent and anti-inflammatory agent.
Yogurt powder – Higher in lactic acid than other milk products, it helps soothe, soften and rejuvenate the skin.

Moroccon Liquid Gold

The argan tree produces a nut so revered for its ability to cure dry skin and protect hair and skin. These trees and nuts can be found in a coastal town of Morocco called Essaouira, once a Portuguese fishing village now populated largely by Berbers. The road from Marrakesh to Essaouira is rocky and desolate, dotted only by a few roadside Berber towns.  

Argan oil is made from the nuts of the argan tree, which grows almost exclusively in this area. The oil, which locals claim has restorative and age-defying effects, is the latest miracle ingredient in the beauty industry. High in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, it is believed to help all sorts of skin conditions: dry skin, acne, psoriasis, eczema, wrinkles. Moroccans use it on and in everything: skin, hair, nails and even their babies. They eat it, too — mixing it into salads and couscous, or using it to make a tahini-like spread of the oil, almonds and honey.

When searching out the “manufacturing” source of this miracle ingredient, you know you are close when you are passing the olive groves and grazing donkeys. You cannot miss the signs announcing the women-run argan cooperatives: Argan Co-Op, Women’s Argan Collective, Miracle Oil – you get the idea. If you pull over to a cooperative, the Berber women — yes only women make the argan oil — will often invite you in to watch them work, even help. In most of the cooperatives, the older village women sit in the courtyard and work as the younger bilingual girls walk you around, giving a tutorial about the process.

You can get it at Sephora – Josie Maran $48 for 2 oz.

Can you really grow lashes?

 

 Using a lash “sauce” or growth stimulator for your lashes does work, with varying success.  As with many things bridal, baby and beauty – it will cost you! 

 

Option 1:

Talika. It comes in a mascara tube and guarantees lash growth in 28 days.  Which is about how long one tube will last – if applying day and night. A tube costs $38.00 and you will need more than one… probably three or four… over all cost is about $114.00 – $152.00. Available at Skin 1 680 N. Lake Shore Drive, Chicago 312.654.1800.

 

Option 2:

Revitalash.  This one has an interesting story.  Developed by Dr. Michael Brinkenhoff who made it from a drug he was using to help his glaucoma patients see better.  The nice side effect of the drug was longer, thicker lashes.  The bad side effect of the drug was a slight discoloration of the skin… so, um… be careful when applying it!  A tube costs $150.00.  Available at www.revitalash.com .

At-Home Spa

Best At-Home Spa Products

Red Flower Petal Candles – Red Flower Candles are the perfect way to set the home spa mood. Non-toxic candles and made with essential oils. Best of all, they won’t leave you with a headache. They’re beautifully packaged, with dried petals on top that you can sprinkle in the bath BEFORE you light them. Also, they come in a range of scents, including French Lavender, Indian Jasmine, Thai Honeysuckle and Morroccan Rose. $34.00 from www.gaiatree.com

Diamancel Foot Buffers – Only truly pampered piggies will appreciate being scraped by these diamond dust foot scrubbers! This is seriously superior sloughing! You can order them in various grades (like sandpaper) at www.blissworld.com

The Spirit of Yoga – This amazing cd by Ben Leinbach will have you so relaxed and zen, you will feel like your bath was a week’s vacation (o.k. maybe just a full night’s sleep). $13.99 at http://entertainment.circuitcity.com

Rica Exotic Therapy Siesta Salts – Fresh-to-order lavender bath salts with real, dried rosebuds … this is opulence and decadence at its best ladies! $37.50 at www.ricabody.com this site also offers an array of other amazing products, but this one is my personal fave.

Fresh Milk Bath – This subtly sweet scent that makes piles of pampering and moisturizing bubbles is the ultimate in bathtime cleansing. $25 at www.fresh.com

Fauchon Rosebud Infusion – This herbal tea was something I discovered while living in Paris. It is called Boutons de Rose (rose buds), the packaging is almost as delicious at the tea these amazing buds make. Sipping on this while you soak in the bath may remind you of Simone deBeauvoir and Jean Paul Sartre or Brigitte Bardot… only more glamourous! $15.00 at www.fauchon.com

What it is, what it does!

What it is…..AND… what it does

Alright ladies… are you wondering when you read the labels on your skincare these days what the heck that stuff is – and more importantly, what does it all do???????

Here you go…

Vitamin C / Ascorbic Acid (or my personal fave – magnesium ascorbyl phosphate!)

Unless you are super sensitive you can use it. It will treat sun damage and aging. It neutralizes free radicals, you know, those tricky buggers are everywhere breaking down our collagen, causing wrinkles, blotchy skin and inflammation (rosacea).

Who does it best? Dr. Brandt “C” Gel $90 at www.drbrandtskincare.com and Murad Essential-C Eye Cream $65 at www.murad.com

Ferulic Acid / 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic Acid (don’t you love it?)

Dry to normal skin reacts best to this one. It treats sun damage and aging just like our friend Vitamin C. It is usually combined with C and E to stabilize them and keep the C from breaking down so quickly.

Who does it best? Well, no one cheaply, but the best bargain is Synovia-Labs CE Ferulic $89 at www.synovialabs.com

Salicylic Acid / Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)

Best for normal to oily skin. It will treat acne and irritation. It cuts through sebum to get rid of blackheads. (Sebum, by the way, is the bad oil that clogs pores.) If you are allergic to aspirin, best to stay away from this sebum slaying samuri.

Who does it best? Neutrogena Rapid Clear Acne Defense Face Lotion $7.50 at CVS

Retinol / Retynyl Palmitate

Again, normal to oily skin. It will treat sun damage, acne and aging. Over the counter version of Retinoids (vitamin A). It basically helps produce more collagen, and stronger elastic tissues on the surface of the skin so that over time it reduces the length and depth of wrinkles and prevents new ones from forming. NOTE: DO NOT USE THIS IF YOU HAVE ROSACEA OR ECZEMA!

Who does it best? Estee Lauder Diminish Anti-Wrinkle Retinol Treatment $80 at Bloomingdales.

Hyluronic Acid / Sodium Hyaluronate (my personal fave!)

Absolutely all skin types – especially we scaly, dry girls! It treats aging! It attracts and seals water into the skin. We all know water is the key to life, youth and health!

Who does it best? Once again, Estee Lauder – they have the patent on their product and I haven’t seen a product that binds more moisture to the skin than theirs… Advanced Night Repair – comes in three sizes and varies in price, but you can get it at Bloomingdales and it is worth every penny! I wish they made one for the butt, bust and anywhere else we sag! You will see the difference in about 4 weeks time, but continue to use it until they pry the bottle out of your cold, dead hands Ladies!

Idebenone / Q-10 (or my favorite – ubiquinone)

Absolutely all skin types will love this – face or body. It treats sun damage, irritation, and aging! One of the strongest and best antioxidants you can get in a cosmetic product. It preserves collagen and elastin – that is the stuff that holds the skin firm, like a support system.

Who does it best? Hands down, Elizabeth Arden’s Prevage $150 at www.elizabetharden.com

Alpha Lipoic Acid

Great for all skin types except for sensitive. It treats aging and sun damage.

Basically an exfoliator that stimulates collagen production. This stuff is powerful stuff, so be careful with it ladies and follow directions carefully.

Who does it best? Dr. Perricone, of course! Advanced Eye Therapy $95 at www.nvperriconemd.com

Eye Rescue 101- Part 3

Fine Lines –

What causes them? Life! Smile, frown, squint, cry, laugh… as Martina McBride said it best… every laugh line on my face made me who I am today! But if the skin is dry, they show more, so…

How to treat them? Eye cream – day and night! Use creams with proven collagen protectors, peptides to stimulate more collagen production and antioxidants to fight collagen breakdown. Sunscreen is also helpful. Night-time eye creams should have retinol, one of the best age fighting ingredients on the market.

How to cover them? Keep wrinkled skin free of concealer, which just loves to settle right into every line on your face! Instead apply a highlighting cream at the inner corners of your eyes and along the top of your cheekbone, tap it into your skin using the tip of your ring finger. Keep shadow minimal and matte! Bobbie Brown Shell is fab.

Be kind to your liabilities and play up your assets! Beauty is in all of us, ladies!

What to buy:

Smashbox Photo Op Under Eye Brightener $18 at Sephora www.sephora.com

Day time cream: Murad Essential-C Eye Cream w/ Spf 15 $65 at Murad www.murad.com

Night time cream: Roc Retinol Correxion Eye Cream $20 at CVS

Eye Rescue 101- Part 2

Puffiness –

What causes causes it? Fluid retention – yep PMS, ladies. When you eat too much salt, drink too much, and do anything remotely unhealthy, your body reacts by drawing extra fluids into its tissues and holds that fluid in for dear life!

How to treat them? Cold compress – you know, those silly cotton pads we never know what to do with? Cut one in half to make half circles, soak in half & half, while doing that put two table spoons in the freezer, once done place the pads under each eye, straight side along lower lash line, remove spoons from freezer, lie down and place spoons, curvy side to the skin horizontally so the tip of the spoon is against the bridge of your nose and rest for three minutes. If you are confused, write me and I will email you a photo of this technique. Follow with a firming eye cream with caffeine in it.

How to cover them? Define your brows, yep – your brows! Draw the attention up, remember, play up your assets, everyone can have great brows if we just pay attention to them. Line upper lashes with a brown or taupe pencil and add a shadow on your lid with just a hit of shimmer but only to the crease, no higher, smudge the liner a bit and add two coats of mascara to the top lashes and one, very thin, coat to the lower lash. NOTE: Do not apply concealer directly to the puffy spot, you will make it appear larger.

Be kind to your liabilities and play up your assets! Beauty is in all of us, ladies!

What to buy:

bi-Color liner in Coffee Cream $6.00 at Sephora

Clarins Extra Firming Eye Contour Serum & Cream $55 each at www.clarins.com – serum for day, cream at night – Wow, it really works!

Clinique All About Eyes Rich $27.50 at Lord & Taylor This is the real deal… and y’all know I am not a fan of Clinique! But they got this one right!

Eye Rescue 101

– Just for you Leslie!
Current mood: blissful
Dark Circles –
What causes them? The dark veins showing through surface skin, and after kids, sun exposure, drinking, smoking and too many late nights, that skin becomes thinner, and more crepey. It is basically collagen depletion.

How to treat them? Use eye creams to plump the skin from the outside, this makes the veins less visible. Choose one with light reflectors. Also, some secret, but powerful ingredients to look for are things like Kojic or Vitamin K.

How to cover them? Yellow-based and waterproof concealers applied with the ring finger in a patting motion or a concealer brush. Stay away from plum eye shadows, go with taupe or mocha – yep, hello Bobbi Brown… If I have said it once, I have said it a million times, “Yes, you DO get too old for shimmer, day-glo and iridescent eye shadow.” Or at least our eyes do.

Be kind to your liabilities and play up your assets! Beauty is in all of us, ladies!

What to buy:

Amazing Concealer $40 at Ulta – pricey but worth it!

Lancome Effacernes Waterproof Undereye Concealer $25 at www.lancome-usa.com

Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue Cream $100 at Ulta – yep, again… pricey, but worth it!

Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Eye Cream $60 at Ulta

Clarins Eye Serum & Cream $55 each at Macy’s – serum for day, cream at night – Wow, it really works!